Story
I am walking the 79 mile John Bunyan Trail with Kiwi, my rescue dog, because increasing numbers of men, women and children are experiencing hardship.
Martin Luther King once famously said 'I have a dream...' I too have a dream: mine is that one day no-one will live with hunger and no parent will go without food so that their child can eat.
Anyone is welcome to join me for any distance they fancy through this stunning and almost unspoilt countryside.
My route (open here )
Map data 2022 Google
Walk diary
Day1: "The day we missed the rain" - Sundon Hills to Harlington (10 miles)
We met together at Sundon Hills ready to begin our walk. The skies were clear and the sheep were contentedly eating the first moist, green grass they had enjoyed after the weeks of drought.
When we had passed the sheep Mike and I let our Dougie and Kiwi off the lead and they scampered, chased and ran and ran. We made our way through ancient wood land and over fields until, at Sharpenhoe Clappers we met up with Carmen. We cautiously made our way down the steep, irregular wooden steps that lead to down to the level path that lead us over the fields to Pulloxhill and our lunch at the Cross Keys.
It was lovely to meet more friends and supporters and Jenny saved the day when she ordered an ice cream just at the moment when suddenly the rain drenched down and we were all safe and dry.
Rain over, we said goodbye. We made our way past the oak tree where John Bunyan was arrested so many, many years ago and on to our journeys end at Harlington.
Day 2: "Jenny and the blackberries" - Harlington to Ampthill (8.5 miles)
Today we were walking to Ampthill. It was uneventful until Kiwi was aggressively pestered by two dogs. The owners said their dogs pestered Kiwi because they were farm dogs. So I gave Kiwi treats.
Last time I had walked the path across this field a herd of cows was sheltering from the sun under an oak tree close to the style we needed to climb. Kiwi and I looked at the cows and decided to leave the field by negotiating a barbed wire fence far away from the cows.
Today there were No Cows Anywhere. We all climbed the style by the oak tree peacefully and safely. I was so relieved. We were all safe.
And Jenny loved the plentiful, rich, juicy blackberries. Her fingers and mouth and even her map - were stained with purple juice.
But she did share some with Kiwi.
A delicious memory!
Day 3: "Meeting" - Ampthill to Ridgmont (6.8 miles)
Today a group of us met with Gordon who is responsible for the Need Project which is there to help people who live in Central Bedfordshires scattered villages and need support. We were all impressed by his skilled organisation, his dedication and the commitment of his volunteers.
Henry, John and N.M.F.P.
We enjoyed walking through Ampthill Great Park and seeing the views once familiar to King Henry V111. Kiwi and Dougie made lots of new doggy friends, all left behind because we had to walk on to the valley described by John Bunyan as The Valley of the Shadow of Death. It is deeply shaded by its tall banks, high hedges and trees which give an atmosphere of quiet, protected shade which I love.
Sadly, I did not love the farmer who chose to dispose of the John Bunyan signpost which should have indicated the path through two fields; the path itself had been ploughed up so that we had to choose
between walking along a main road with fast traffic and no pavement or struggling along the ploughed edge of two fields.
This farmer is Not My Favourite Person.
But Segenhoe Church still stands, almost a ruin; its roof and spire are long gone but its walls enclose mysteries of times long past; and the leaning grave stones are still visible through the tall, uncut grasses.
I do so love this church.
But we had to move on to Ridgmont our journeys end. And our lunch!
Day 4: "Oliver Cromwell day" - Ridgmont to Cranfield (5.6 miles)
Today is my Oliver Cromwell Day.
Not a John Bunyan Trail Day? I hear you ask politely. Well yes, its about his Trail of course.( But Bunyan was a foot soldier in Cromwells army).
And Cromwell had a house built on a hill (which is now on the John Bunyan Trail).
But several years ago someone bought the house and land for £1.00 and soon afterwards the house was destroyed in an arson attack.
Now it is a ruin: what was once a garden is overgrown; graffiti is sprawled across centuries old collapsing walls; the house now roofless, defaced with broken lintels; part of Cromwells story and our history is gone. (at least that is what we were told by friendly walkers)
And we walked on thoughtfully to end our days walk at Cranfield.
EDIT: Maggies was forced to take a couple of days off after injuring her foot.
Day 5: "Walking again!" - Just from Barton le Clay to Lilley (not too far, to be on the safe side)
Mike and Dougie joined us again at St Nicholas Church where we met the kind and supportive Rector who came to wish us well with our walk.
And we climbed up and up the steep hill until we could see into the far distance lit by the pale Autumn sunshine. Kiwi briefly disappeared, chasing a muntjac deer. He returned very pleased with himself. I was not pleased. Dougie sensibly just stood and watched. And we made our way over the fields to Lilley. Bunyan often went there.
I love the old houses: each of them has one wall decorated by a plaque of a proud lion.
And we will walk a longer distance tomorrow.
Day 6: Cranfield to Bromham (8.9 miles)
To-day has been a day with villages that have long, wandering main streets. With apologies, especially to Cranfield whose Rector, like Bunyan, was a non -conformist also put into Bedford prison for his beliefs at about the same time as John Bunyan.
(I hope there was some space left in Bedford Prison for criminals?)
But there were fields and a country park and a delightful orchard and reflective bullocks.
And Mike found a comfy log to share with Dougie while he examined the map to make sure we were on the right path to meet with John for a pub lunch.
Day 7: "The day with everything"
Mike and I left the cafe at Bromham Mill to walk to Stevington, to find the magnificent windmill still standing proudly on the edge of the village;
then we passed the ancient Church and the ancient spring of Holy Water close by. Kiwi drank there briefly and I hoped St Nicholas, patron saints of all creatures, would understand.
We walked along the valley where the River Ouse flows calmly, and we loved the trees that grow tall and strong on the river banks. As we neared Pavenham we found a place where the dogs could splash and paddle and drink. At least Kiwi paddled and splashed. Dougie was more cautious.
Our days walk was beginning to come to its end; but we walked on to Oakley and followed the path that runs beside the railway line until we reached Clapham and the road that leads on to Bedford and Elstow.
A very special day.
Day 8: "The long day"
My friend Astrid has joined Mike and Dougie, Kiwi and me for our walk. We walked briskly in the Autumn sunshine and I loved the dove cot, far more elaborate than most peoples home.
And in the distance we saw the enormous hangers home to the airships at Cardington.
And the cottages at Haynes had extraordinary names. Should I change our house name from Anchor Awyle to Strawberry Cottage? Except our house is not a cottage. And we dont grow strawberries.
There was a happy gaggle of geese in a field with their white plumage shiny in the sunshine. Mike said, Christmas Dinner. But the geese carried on grazing in their field, unaware.
And we walked through the woods to find our journeys end at Shefford.
Day 9:
Today began well in the warm sunshine with wide views across Bedfordshire countryside. We saw Sharpenhoe Clappers on the far horizon and we had walked there on our first day. Now our walk was nearly over. And a circle almost completed.
Until I took the wrong path across a field; Mike and I walked and walked and our dogs ran and explored. The dogs were happy. I was not. I knew we were lost.
We saw a farmer on his tractor and he stopped the engine when he came level with us.
Do you know this is private land? he asked us gruffly.
Im sorry, I replied but we are here by accident because I missed the footpath
Thats alright then, the farmer said. Its hare coursing for commercial gain I dont like. And they moved a very large tree trunk when they came.
Kiwi and I, Mike and Dougie, all four of us looked innocent. None of us knew anything about hare coursing. Or moving large tree trunks.
So the farmer gave us directions to Shillington and we soon we could see the church proud on its high hill in the far distance.
And we knew that tomorrow our long walk would be complete.
Day 10: "Journeys End!"
Today I met up with my friend Astrid for the last stage of my walk.
We set off from Lilley to make our way to Streatley where we would meet friends from Luton Food Bank.
I loved the last stage of the walk because you look down from the hills to see the golf course and Luton town in the far distance.
But Astrid and I had an appointment to keep and we rushed onwards, not wanting to be late
And it was lovely to see John with Salma and Dharmi waiting to meet us.
Kiwi wore his best Luton Food Bank jacket. And I was given a thank you gift of flowers and a framed certificate of appreciation from the Food Bank.
And Kiwi woofed because he knew it was a special occasion.
And I was left with memories of an extraordinary walk.
Maggies Earlier Adventures
In preparation for my (very, very) long walk along the John Bunyan Trail Im walking it in stages.
a) Cows
The herd was lying down peacefully in the shade of an oak tree close to a stile I needed to climb to continue my walk along the John Bunyan Trail. One cow was standing on lookout duty.
As always, I had Kiwi with me and I was terrified. (Even if John Bunyan had preached under this same tree 400 years ago). With Kiwi on a short lead I walked steadily away from the cows towards a six barred gate which was chained and padlocked.
Kiwi squeezed under the gate and I clambered cautiously over a nearby wobbly fence made of collapsing wooden planks.
We were safe! But we had lost the path.
b) Mud
This wide stretch of deep mud that slopes down to the river is well trodden by cattle as they go to drink in the River Ouse. Kiwi squelched through happily, then squelched back because I was stranded; one walking boot had been dragged off my foot by the clinging, sticky mud. I tugged my boot out of the mud using both hands and carried on, a sock on one foot, a boot on the other. Until my second boot was sucked off my foot by the greedy mud. So I put both boots in my rucksack (ugh) and walked in my socks. One shoeless, mud covered woman. One bouncy dog. Until all mud was behind us.
c) Lost in a Nightmare
I had lost the Trail. Failed to find it after three attempts. Left the path to call John to ask please would he pick me up?
But I found myself in a world of endless warehouses. All white. Huge rectangular boxes. Only a streak of colour for a logo. Wide, white pavements. Wide roads. No cars. No vans. No-one.
Kiwi padded along obediently at heel, his ears back. There were no rabbits here, no interesting smells, no forgotten ball to be found; nothing.
At the entrance to one white box I found a security booth with many cameras. No people. I tried the Visitors Entrance at another white box. No visitors. No one at reception.
Just stillness. Silence.
Then I saw a human being walking in the distance in a High Viz jacket.
I called out to him; waved my arms and Kiwi and I ran to him.
He waited for us and told me proudly the exact size of the largest white box. It was Amazon.
He was a kindly man. He gave me clear directions out of our nightmare. I thanked him and Kiwi and I returned to a world with a postman and bustle and houses; and I waited for John on a bench near a bus shelter and next to a Chinese Takeaway. Kiwi found a stick to chew. John came to find us. We had a pub lunch. Heaven
d) Geese
We stopped under a shady tree to give Kiwi a much needed drink of water. The farmer passed by with a friendly Hello and returned herding a gaggle of geese, all shiny white, all busily honking.
Kiwi sat upright, silent, every hair alert as the geese waddled passed us.
And now I have a memory to keep of a gaggle of geese and a dog in the hot sun on a summers morning.