Andrew's Challenge - The Final Frontier/Episode!

 

DAY 8 – THE FINAL DAY

Had some beers in !

But not until we had 3 big climbs and 3000m of descent!

We left the Vignette hut at and skied in the dark with a head torch down to the glacier and then climbed the d'Eveque in the dark, minus 18C and a whiteout!

We had 20cm of fresh snow in the night so it was a slow slog up.

The hair bear bunch led the way today but Simon organised the weather for us.

As we got to the top the sun came out and we put some perfect S's into fresh powder on the way down to our second climb; the col de Brulee. This was the crux climb of the day and we changed to crampons and axes. One guy from another group fell and had to be helicoptered out.

We then had another good ski before starting our final climb up to the col du Valpelline, this was a long slap up to the summit, but it was worth it; as we got to the top the mountain dominating everything was the Matterhorn.

We then had a great ski down under the North face through massive seracs and icefalls on the glacier.  Then a long traverse out of the valley down to . Then beers in Stafell before a drunken ski into the resort!

It's done, safe and sound. A magnificent life adventure, every emotion under the sun experienced during the week. Met some great people along the way.

Glad to say the preparation was excellent; Rob's "train hard, fight easy" motto definitely works.

Simon was an excellent guide, bullet proof technically and a great leader giving reassurance when needed but not patronising at all.

Great company for the whole trip.

What's next?

 

DAY 7

After a sleepless night due to anxiety and a very loud snoring B****d who kept all 24 folks in our bunk room awake!

We left the Dix hut at 6:45: temp minus 14C!! Skied down to the glacier and crossed on skies. Then skins on and up 900m in a one go. Started easily but very quickly became steep and we were the first tracks up after fresh snow last night. The crux of the climb was the col de Serpentine, basically a massive glacial ice serac. Geoff was very nervouse and I went into my mountaineers world which Geoff has also now discovered; should we skin it or ice climb it, there was some snow over the ice so we decided to skin it. Other groups were now catching us up and decided to rope up, we stayed solo. I can explain the technicalities of the call if anyone is interested. It was a very scary climb, very exposed and steep position, after 5 kick turns we made it to the Col safe and sound and feeling very alive and relieved.

Simon was great at keeping us reassured but we did the work!

After that we had a brew and a chew then a big slap up climb to the Pin d'Arrolla (3800m) an easy summit from the South but a 1000m drop of a cornice to the North. Took some great photo's with the Matterhorn now in sight.

We then skiied down steep fresh powder to the Vignettes Hut spectacularly built on a cliff.

Tomorrow Zermatt!

DAYS 5 & 6 OF THE CHALLENGE

Day 5

Started from at and skinned up 600m to the de Chaux, it was pisted apart from the last 100 which was an icy bitch! Then had a very commited ski traverse down to Lac du MontFort before putting skins back on and starting the long slog up towards Rosablanch 3336m. We had a break at the Tete du Momin before traversing then climbing up the glacier. We cramponed the last 150m to the top to celebrate Geoffs first alpine summit. We watched the ski helicopter drop a load of skiers off before getting back on our skis. We then skied some lovely powder down the Glacier Prafleurie. The weather suddenly changed and lost visibility and had a bit of a mare trying to get to the hut (but we're here now). The forecast is bad for the next few days so things will get even tougher for the rest of the trip.

Just seen 5 Chamois near the hut.

Whoopy!!

Day 6

As I write this we are about 30 minutes climb from the Dix hut sitting on a rock next to the Dix glacier, the scenery is fantastic, Mont Blanc de Schelion, Pin d'Arolla (which we climb tomorrow). We started out early again to beat the weather which is in a pattern of nice morning, crap afternoon.

We had a 60 minute climb up to the de Rue, then a long, commited traverse on ski's along the Dix valley to the head of the reservoir and the bottom of the glacier. This is a heavily avalanched area and we left 100m between us for safety, if one gets caught the other two can search with the tranceicvers. We then had a 3 hour slog up the glacier to the hut. Big day tomorrow.

 

DAYS 3 & 4 OF THE CHALLENGE:

Day 3

Up early again after a good night in the hut, we skied down the Argentier glacier to the bottom of the Col du Passon, then skinned up 600 metres before changing into crampons and getting the ice axe out, we then climbed up the last 200m of steep snow/ice to the col.

We had a break in the sun before skiing in perfect powder down to the Tour glacier then skinned up another 150 m to the col de tour, it was impassable, loose rock, no ice or snow so we skied back down to the col Superior and climbed 200m up that. Knackered by now!

The top saw us cross into followed by a long easy ski to the Trient hut. Met Stephen Venables and his son. Stephen was the first Brit to Solo ascent of Everest and has climbed all over the world. He knew Simon (guide) well.

Skiing into Verbier today, pity Jason's not there. Could do with a shower. The huts have no water!

Day 4

Fairly easy day today, mostly downhill. Excellent skiing from the hut down the glacier, then a ice climb over col Des Ecandies followed by a horrible survival ski in crusted slush, steep and tracked, it eased out as we aproached Champex. We then went across to Verbier and used the lift system to access the Mont Fort hut. Its a great hut, doubling up as a restaurent in the ski resort; the best bit- a shower and a chance to wash some clothes!

Big day tomorrow, summiting Rosablanche (3400m).

 

ANDREW'S HAUTE ROUTE CHALLENGE - 2ND UPDATE -     please continue to read down the extended page for more information about my challenge.

 

A nice easy start playing around with the avalanche trancievers, learning to ski rubbish crusty soft snow with 30lb back packs. We then set out down the Rognon Glacier skinned across the Argentier Glacier to the hut.

Its a bit warm after & heavy snow last week so avalanche risk is high. Geoff and I have coped well with day 2 tomorrow looks a stiffer challenge, as we have already done the col de Chardonay in Training; Simon is taking us over the col du Passon and then onto the Trient Hut. No signal here so this won't send from my Blackberry tonight.  8/4/10

 

UPDATE 1:

i'M OFF - THE CHALLENGE HAS BEGUN

Haute Route  - Day one Travel & Preparation

Left home at 4:10 to go to airport, everything 5 star, on time, good seats, first bags off the luggage belt and got my bag carried by the Cham Van man!
Arrived, shook out kit,met Simon (guide) and re-filtered. Changed to water bottles from camel back and purchased 2 ice screws. Got to carry 30m rope extra  weight!

Watched ManU in the champions league in La Terrace bar.

Setting off at 9am to test run and make our way to Argentier hut.

Andrew

Keep reading below for more information on why I am undertaking this challenge and PLEASE KEEP DONATING

 

My aim is to raise £20,000 for "Help for Heroes" by undertaking the gruelling physical & mental challenge of "Haute Route Ski Tour".    Please read on for more details:

I have done many mad things in my life, climbed Mont Blanc the hard way, run Marathons, competed in triathlons, walked Coast to Coast but this the BIG one!

I have been in training for 8 months both for  the physical. technical and mental demands of this adventure and I would like to dedicate my efforts to raising money for our Service men and women.

Many of you who know me will  be aware that “I am the greatest warrior that never was” and a great patriot.

My target is to raise £20,000 for the real warriors that are fighting and dieing for us in our cosy little life.

There are a number of ways you can donate money – either by using the link shown below OR if you are a Produce World colleague, by putting your donation into one of the Help 4 Heroes donations boxes that are located at each PW site – a poster at each site will tell you where your nearest donation box is located.

I aim to keep you all updated on my progress both here online on my page at "Justgiving.com/Andrew-Burgess" and via the Produce World Intranet website for colleagues.

Thank you – our  Service men & women receiving your help will be very grateful

The is a dramatic ski-mountaineering among ’s most highest peaks and glaciers.  The tour starts in and finishes in – arguably the toughest ski tour in the World.  The features 120km, 6,000m of ascent and descent through magnificent high altitude alpine terrain

MARCH 2010 UPDATE

In preparation for my challenge I recently undertook a training weekend in the Lakes.  My hotel room was nice and cosy at minus 12C surrounded by nothing but the night sky and without the luxury of a tent!   My peaceful, if somewhat "chilly" night was followed in the morning by a 20 mile hike over Great Knot, Crinkle Crags, Bowfell, Esk Pike, Ska Fell Pike, Great Gable and a long walk out via Angle Tarn. The last 4 hours were undertaken in the dark.
All went well & I am on track for the Haute Route; but very tired and a little "frostnip" on my thumbs.  

Keep looking out for the next update from "Andrew the Warrior" and donating.

 

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